#101 MAGNIFI-CENT: THE FINAL

HAIR:

81-83) BEST SHAMPOO & INTENSIVE CONDITIONER FOR DAMAGED HAIR
Aveda Damage Remedy Intensive Restructuring Treatment is the best. I walk away and end up running back every time. In fact I get a bit panicky when I run out. The shampoo and ordinary conditioner in the range are nice too, but the treatment is the clear winner. The best shampoo I’ve ever used for dry and splitting hair is Paul Labreque Restorative Hair Wash. I’ve mentioned it before, but it really is wonderful – but I swap it in and out with Kerastase Biotic Bain Recharge Shampoo to avoid getting a scaply build-up (which can happen with this). On the conditioning front, Redken UV Rescue After-Sun Conditioner is lovely and creamy too – I’ve been using it while away and it adds a nice sheen to sea-d out hair.

84) BEST SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER FOR COLOUR
My hair has not been coloured for a long time but at the time, I remember rating Elvive and Redken. Zoe Irwin recommended the Kerastase Reflection Bain Miroir, but it wasn’t moisturising enough for my hair, which is also chemically straightened. That’s the thing with products for coloured hair – they’re so focused on boosting brightness that they sometimes feel as though they skimp on the nourishment front. Toni&Guy’s Label.m are particularly good on this front – the treatment shampoo and conditioner are the best in the range.

85) BEST SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER FOR EVERYDAY
I’ve never seen the point in using a lightweight shampoo and conditioner. When I condition, I normally intensive condition (even if it’s just on the very ends), and when I shampoo, I like something that cleanses deeply but that cancels out dry bits and doesn’t leave me with static sections (a pet hate with bog standard shampoos). There are dozens of good shampoos & conditioners out there of course, and it’s certainly not the case that the more you spend the greater the benefits you see. Good, inexpensive formulas are made by MOP, VO5, Superdrug-own Coconut Intensive Conditioner and John Frieda. And, actually, the new Herbal Essences Hello Hydration range is rather nice too.

86) BEST VOLUMISING PRODUCT
Despite mousse conjuring up images of St Elmo’s Fire-style hair, I think it’s great for adding oomph to strands. I like L’Oreal’s Hot Volume Mousse and Fructis Style XXL. Both are cheap but do the job well – although I’ve yet to find a mousse that really keeps hair bouncing until morning. Non-mousse nods go to Aveda’s Pure Abundance Hair Spray and the TIGI Superstar range – the latter builds quite astonishing volume into strands, but don’t be surprised if your brush gets lost in it – it’s not the easiest nest to comb out.


87) BEST SMOOTHING/STRAIGHTENING PRODUCT
One thing works better than the rest: Redken Glass 01. Hair is supremely soft, smooth and shiny. I’ve got one in my gym bag & one in my bathroom.

88) BEST PROTECTING PRODUCT
The Kerastase Resistance range is great on this front – Ciment Thermique is my hands-down winner.

89) BEST MATTIFYING PRODUCT
Schwarzkopf OSIS Dust It Mattifying Powder is a take on Aveda’s original Pure Abundance Powder. Both are great. Also along the same lines in label.m’s award winning Resurrection Dust. I find that all three work better on really light blond hair (think Duffy), but for brunettes looking to get the most out of them, style hair first, then tip head upside down and massage into roots. It takes the edge off of ‘perfect’ styling and leaves hair with a sexy, ruffled finish.

90) BEST DRY SHAMPOO
I recently tried Andrew Barton’s, from the Shiny, Happy Hair range, and it gets a thumbs up. It really does banish oily roots and add lift but the super-sweet pina colada scent is a bit much for most. KMS Makeover Spray is still scented, but a bit fresher, and does the same job (if slightly less volumising) than AB’s. I don’t like Batiste of the Klorane powder-formula for brown hair – or Bumble & Bumble’s either for that matter – they’re too messy, and the former two leave dandruff-style sprinkles behind. Ick.

91 - 94) BEST SHINE-ENHANCING PRODUCT
Well, Redken Glass 01 is a winner in this category too. TIGI Spray Shine adds real glisten (but isn’t great for grease-prone hair), Paul Mitchell Gloss Drops and L’Oreal Playball Soda Sparkler.

95) BEST LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER
I really like Frederic Fekkai Daily Protein Fortifier for the smoothness it restores (though temporarily) to splitting ends, and the milk-bottle sweetie scent.

FEET & NAILS:

96-98) BEST NAIL POLISH
Essie make the best shades (particularly pinks & reds) and chip-proof formulas. MAC make good fashion-forward hues, and RMK’s pinks go on lovely and glossy (leaving you with nails like little seashells). For unusual ahead-of-the-trend colours cult brand USLU Airlines are a favourite (but are a bugger to buy – I get mine from Colette in Paris)

99) BEST FOOT SCRUB
Avon Footworks Pedi-Brasion Scrub is AMAZING. I’ve never strayed.

100) BEST FOOT CREAM
Margaret Dabbs for regenerating knackered soles and Aveda for adding a minty & tingle freshness to tired feet.

#101, MAGNIFI-CENT: THE PENULTIMATE EPISODE

60) BEST CREAM BLUSH
I’ve used so many over the years – and I’ve found good shades with MAC, Laura Mercier, The Organic Pharmacy, Stila, Bobbi Brown, Boots Natural Collection, Jelly Pong Pong, and Giorgio Armani (my favourite was a popsicle-bright peony. Then they discontinued it. I was inconsolable. The End.) Recently I discovered Jemma Kidd Blush Wear Creme Cheek Colour. It only comes in three shades – guava (bright pink), pawpaw (pale pink) and pomegranate (coral), but the formulation is beautiful. Many of the best cream blushers are not long-wearing enough to withstand blending, let alone a day’s work, but this one deposits high-pigment colour that blends down to a healthy-look powder finish – which also manages to look very natural. Best applied with fingers to the apples of the cheek and blended outwards.

61) BEST POWDER BLUSH
Yes, I’m big on blusher. NARS, MAC, Shu Uemura, Revlon, Maybelline... raised cheeks to all. But the one I go back to, year after year, is Bobbi Brown Blusher in Pale Pink. It looks anything but pale in the pot – it’s a rather garish blue-based raspberry – but on cheeks, it looks effortlessly youthful & when taken up to the highest part of the apple of each cheek, does a darn good job of deflecting attention away from dark circles too.

62) BEST CHEEK TINT/STAIN
As divisive as Marmite this one. I used to use Origins Pinch My Cheeks a lot as a teenager, but got bored of the panic-stricken ‘squeeze, dot, blend in under 3 seconds scenario’, and the semi-permanent cheek smears I was left with when it all went wrong. I tried Benefit’s best-selling Benetint too – but the colour just didn’t leave adequate pigment behind and after several applications I began to look like Mrs Klaus (much better on lips this one). Their Posietint was even worse – absolutely no visible colour left behind at all – so I assume this is for whiter-than-white skintones only? Then there was Revlon’s lip and cheek tint, and again, it fared well on lips, poorly on cheeks. The Body Shop’s scored a bit better, but became patchier as the day wore on. Then, MAC Just a Pinch Cheek Gel landed on my desk. A gorgeous glossy cherry red, good colour fidelity on skin, blendable (and non-staining formula), and though it didn’t finish the day, it did look good while it lasted. The low note? It’s part of the summer collection. Why is it that good things come in limited edition packages?

63 - 64) BEST LIQUID/GEL EYELINER
Liquid eyeliner is the mistress of many of my make-up fantasies, but it’s also one of the toughest techniques to master. Of course, the less efficient your tools, the trickier it will be. I’ve found over the years that gel eyeliners are easier to work with than liquid ones – and Bobbi Brown Gel Eyeliner wins out in the gel stakes. A great Jemma Kidd make-up artist coached me for an hour before I got the knack of it – and it involves getting the right amount on the right brush (Bobbi Brown, Make-Up Forever, The Body Shop & Shu Uemura make great brushes) – you’re looking for a brush that tapers to a very fine-tip – (although lipliner brushes can do the job well too), and you want to dash and dot the colour along the lashline, in short strokes, doing both eyes at the same time, going from one to the other, in order to work up a symmetrical shape. The Bobbi gel is great because it stays where you put it and won’t run or smudge. And if the line’s a bit too thick or wobbly or uneven, a fine-tipped cotton bud (from Muji) dipped in eye-make-up remover (use a non-oily one if possible, as oily ones can sit on the lid and ruin the rest of the make-up), will tidy it up in seconds.

And, for liquids, I’ve always loved Shu Uemura’s liquid eyeliner pen because it is just stiff and fine enough to give you precision, and the ink is thick enough to go on deeply, but thin enough to create an uncloggy line. Just remember to give it a good shake before you start and draw a line on the back of the hand to get it flowing freely... and, well, just take it really slowly, small dash after small dash, right up against the lash line, and do the same as above if you have any unfortunate mishaps. And remember, practice makes for perfect flicks.

65 - 66) BEST EYELINER PENCIL
For a long wear with lovely colour choices, Urban Decay’s 24/7 Eyeliners have paved the way for a whole host of imitators. They are still the best though – gel-like, but firm enough for a clean line, and with quite extraordinary pigment that looks as bright on the lid as it does in the nib.
For chalkier, smokier eyes, I love Estee Lauder’s Artist’s Eye Pencils. They used to do a lovely navy (I’m hanging onto my stub as though it’s worth its weight in gold), but the black is a great staple.

67) BEST BROW PRODUCT
As a reader of the blog recently pointed out – you can get just as good (if not better) a result with an eyeliner pencil than you can with a brow-specific product. You want a stiff, sharp pencil (soft, smudgy kohl is a no-no), and you want to fill in gaps with short, hair-like jots. I’ve never found a powder or coloured gel that has done the job better than a simple pencil. Most days, however, I use nothing other than clear gel to keep my brow-bush in place. My favourites are made by The Body Shop, Shavata and Susan Posnick (which comes in a tube with black mascara at the other end).

68) BEST LIPGLOSS
I am not a gloss girl, but I’ve tried hundreds in the course of the day job. A good gloss for me is non-sticky, reasonably pigmented (I hate it when you pick up a vivid fuchsia only to have it translate to your lips as weak strawberry milkshake) and relatively long-lasting. Good ones are made by Daniel Sandler, MAC, By Terry, Lauder, Clinique, L’Oreal, NARS and Stila. My favourite, however, are PIXI’s Fluid Lip Crèmes. Garland is the most extraordinary hot pink and goes on as you see it, with vivid colour and a lovely sheen. The minty fresh waft they deposit on pouts is lovely too.


69) BEST LIP STAIN
Once again, I’ve used many of these – and PIXI, Bourjois and Stila have been among my favourites. But, most days (including the ol’ wedding day), it is/was left to Urban Decay Lip Envy to deliver the goods. Layer it up four or five times for a deep lipstick richness that lasts all day, or stick with a single wash to give lips a natural flush that looks fresh and pretty.

70) BEST LONG-LASTING LIPSTICK
I don’t do long-lasting because I am prone to dry lips and I do not believe there is a formula out there that can deliver upon its colour + comfort promise. SO, when I want a 24-hour lip, I use stain, or a long-lasting lip pencil (once again, Urban Decay 24/7 are the people to go see), and stain, then blot, and stain, then blot, then top it off with a coat of soothing lip balm. That’s me done for the night.

71 - 72) BEST CONCEALER
For under-eye bags and shadows, it’s Dior Skinflash and has been for five years. It’s one of the very few products I’ve tried that can be blended down to imperceptibility (I hate the dry lines you get with thicker concealers) and it reflects light beautifully. For red spots, I’ve been using Benefit You’re Bluffing a lot of late and it does do a good job, but I just wish it stayed put a little better (one for the handbag). For won’t shift coverage in a great putty-skin tone, you can’t do better than Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. Invest in a little concealer brush though – this isn’t one to be dabbed on with a fingertip. I use this over the odd non-red spot, but never under the eyes as I do not believe it looks natural enough (regardless of how many pros have tried to convince me otherwise).

73) BEST POWDER
I like MAC Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder (and use it if I’m on the old telly box), and Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder (once again, used on my wedding day & invisible to the naked eye – it’s definitely earned its ‘secret’ soubriquet). I’ve also used Bare Minerals Foundation over shiny bits while on holiday and that’s worked really well – adding a little bit more coverage, but evening out nicely too.

74) BEST PRIMER
The cosmetic can of worms. Personally, I think if you’re young, or just have relatively good skin, then you really don’t need it. Today’s foundations are good enough to stay where they’re supposed to, and if you have a decent skincare regime, you shouldn’t need to fake a smooth base upon which to apply your make-up. But, for those with lines and wrinkles, I think a primer can be a good idea. Many swear by Laura Mercier’s, but I have never liked the slightly chemical smell, nor have I seen a great deal of improvement on days when I’ve used it. I think you have to be realistic with yourself and accept that you’re using a primer for a temporary smooth and even surface – and in that case, it’ll be packed with silicones – which are fine, as on the whole they’re inert and non-irritating. They are also responsible for that slightly oily-silky feeling you get in some creams, which leave skin with a velvet finish. Pro colleagues have recommended Smashbox Photo Finish Light Foundation Primer so many times now that I feel I ought to pass the best-buck onto you... it’s the classic silicon-based formula. If, however, you’re after something that skirts the line between primer & highlighter, I’d recommend By Terry Colour Skin Enhancer. They come in mauve, peach and rose shades, and add a spot-lit oomph to jaded faces. For best results, mix a small amount in with foundation.

75) BEST CREAM EYESHADOW
My favourites were in the original Space NK make-up line (now discontinued) – they did a lovely minky brown that always looked great with black kohl. Ho-Hum. I’ve found lovely alternatives from The Body Shop, DuWop (these have a firming effect too), Lancome (the cooling gel shadows are wonderful summer staples) and Laura Mercier. My favourite: Clinique Quick Eyes. Just can’t go wrong.

76 - 77) BEST POWDER EYESHADOW
It’s not the first time I’ve got forceful about Urban Decay’s eyeshadows. They’re just great – some of the best & most richly pigmented shades on the market. Too Faced are also good for bold & bright colours, and the powder’s nice and fine, but has good colour fidelity too. For chic and sophisticated, I adore Bobbi Brown (although she does some beautiful bright purples & foresty greens now too), Chanel and Dior (both make the best colour palettes on the market).

78) BEST POWDER BRONZER
I’ve used Guerlain’s Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder for a long time. I like the pale pink and peach accents in it which keep the colour from looking muddy. Similarly, this summer Armani have brought out a bronzer with red flecks in it – a great idea given that any real sun exposure would also leave you looking a little flushed. I also like all-natural-mineral brand Lily Lolo’s Waikiki Bronzer. Less is more though.

79) BEST LIQUID BRONZER
I like Origins, Lauder and Guerlain. My favourite is Laura Mercier Bronzing Gel – because whenever I wear it people always say that I look well, and let’s face it, that’s all we’re hoping for when we paint our faces each morning. If I weren’t long married, it would be my first date secret weapon.

80) BEST HIGHLIGHTING PRODUCT
MAC’s crème colour bases are great (try Hush), but I like a powder highlighter because it lasts longer & stays where you put it. My favourite is the Laura Mercier Shimmer Block. It’s less glittery than Bobbi Brown’s Shimmer Brick and blends down to a more sophisticated finish.


And those final few touches shall appear tomorrow... in HAIR and NAILS...

#101 MAGNIFI-CENT: THE SEQUEL....PART ONE :)

BEST MASCARA:
This is a tricky subject. Personally, I like my lashes light, feathery and fluttery, with a deep inky blackness. I hate gloopy ones – likes spider’s legs dipped in tar and too-thick & dry ones which look like witchy split ends. So, bearing this in mind, I favour lengthening or tinting formulas. Here are the best: 51) No 7 Sensitive Eyes Mascara – not because it’s for sensitive eyes but because the neat little brush makes for lovely, clean definition and the formula is non-gloopy. 52) Jemma Kidd Semi-Permanent Lash Tint – the semi-perm promise is a bit overstated – it’s not a tint in the traditional sense, BUT it does last all day (I’ve worn it in the pool, in the sea, in the shower because I forgot I was wearing it) unless it happens to come into contact with oil and then, bye bye batting lashes. I like it because one coat makes a big difference, it inks up lashes beautifully and it never feels heavy. 53) Illegally expensive this one, but if PRs are sending, I’m requesting Chantecaille’s Mascara. It’s got a bunch of lovely things in it like Rosewater, vitamin E, Green Tea and Beeswax, BUT it’s the glide-on formula that picks up on each and every feathery little sucker and leaves you with a far fuller fringe than you had before that makes this a resolute favourite. En-chantecailled.

BEST LIPSTICK:
OK, another deep breath. There are so many brands that make great lipsticks now. Lancôme, YSL, Givenchy, Shu Uemura, Guerlain, No 7, Miners (honestly – try them – some really lovely shades) Paul & Joe, MAC (shades are second to none but the sugar sweet scent makes me queasy)... good stuff. I’ve gone with the brands I just feel really ‘get it’ and regularly make it into my make-up bag. 54) Urban Decay Lipstick. The dagger-stabbed pack is USP overkill BUT there are some seriously great shades in the line-up. Revolution is one of the truest reds I’ve found (Illamasqua’s Ignite & MAC’s Ruby Woo are fab too) while 5150 is a gorgeous, meaty coral. They pack some weight too – not just the packaging, which will add some clout to you clutch (all the better for striking exes around the head with), but also thanks to their vitamin & hylauronic acid rich formula. 55) Chanel. No surprises here. My first ‘real woman’ lipstick was Chanel’s Rose Baby & I’ve been having a lusty affair with them ever since. If you want a soft, moisturising formula go for Rouge Hydrabase, which does the sweetest, powdery pink (Coco Pink) or the Rouge Allure range, which has a sophisticated satin finish. You can’t beat the coral paunchiness of Vertige, or the tortured femme glam of Exquise. I smile just thinking about it. 56) RMK – for their glossy, candy pinks that always perk up the face. I pack two or three each time I go on holiday because they never fail to make me smile.

BEST FOUNDATION/TINTED MOISTURISER:
The list of things I expect to get from my foundation might come with a pinch of the Veruca Salts (I want! I want! I want!), but here it is: I want the sort of coverage that evens out, adds radiance (without ANY sparkle or glitter), is untraceable (even when you’re nose-close to the mirror) and does not settle unceremoniously in lines or over dry patches. I’d also like a bit of SPF if possible (but this isn’t a deal-breaker) and a formula that does not break me out in spots. I’ve found that it’s only possible to get the untraceable side of things from tinted moisturisers which are more about the moisture than they are about the pigment. More of this in a moment.

I am ALWAYS being told by PRs that their brand’s foundation looks totally natural, but I just find myself zooming in on their skin, which is more often than not screaming out with product and far from selling their point. My pet peeve: foundation that settles over peach fuzz and looks too powdery. Don’t believe the counter girls either. In my experience, at least half of them are wearing cheaper options from Boots as they get meagre discounts on their own products, so what you’re looking at probably isn’t the real deal anyway. In my extensive experience only ONE foundation has ever done all the above (minus SPF. Sob.) and that’s 56) SK-II’s Air Touch Foundation – and even then it doesn’t even do it every single time. Less is more with this one – if you overdo it skin will look masky and forehead lines will appear where you didn’t have any before. BUT, if you do it right – the right distance, moving across the face in smooth movements, just a few seconds for the entire face (it can take a bit of getting used to), you’ll get a fine mist that leaves skin looking like itself but far better – you’ll end up with glowy, poreless and bright skin. It’s bloody expensive though – even the refills for the fancy canister cost £40 for 2!

Now for tinted moisturisers AKA my complexion comfort zone. I’ve already waxed lyrical about Murad Sheer Tint which I use daily because it is traceless, but I’ll admit that I need a little more on special occasions. On holiday I took to pairing it with a tiny dusting of Bare Minerals foundation, just over the t-zone to take off shine, and that worked beautifully. I wouldn’t use Bare Minerals on skin with peach fuzz though – peach fuzz + powder = regrettable close encounters with the opposite sex. I’ve tried 57) Sue Devitt Tinted Moisturiser, and liked it a lot. It sinks in nicely and provides adequate coverage – nice on red patches and moisturising too – although I’ve never found a tinted moisturiser that provided skip-the-skincare levels of hydration and this is no exception. 58) Clinique Almost Makeup is nice over the t-zone and good at evening things out. Their Moisture Sheer Tint on the other hand is a bit too sparkly & made my skin look sweaty in photographs. 59) PIXI Illuminating Tint & Conceal is a tricky bugger because it does contain a glittery quotient and isn’t great on dry skin (once again, the 3-in-1 promise is overblown – it is not a proper moisturiser!) And if you use too much and all over the face you can look a bit like a mannequin BUT if you use just a small amount over necessary bits i.e. nose, forehead and chin, it’s rather wonderful. On bright days it does make skin look lovely & luminous thanks to its light-reflective properties.

And, now that I’ve covered the biggest bases, I’ll be back with the less ‘epic’ cosmetics in a day or two (sorry, I’m actually supposed to be on holiday!)...

#100 The MAGNIFI-CENT - EPISODE I

As this is my 100th post - cheers! clink clink - I figured I'd ditch the bad-mouthing for a bit and list my TOP 100 BEAUTY TREATS. So, here is Part One of the good stuff...


But just in case the nods get too nauseating, for my 102nd post I'll be dishing the dirt on the MOST OVERRATED BEAUTY LAUNCHES OF ALL TIME... yep, a round-up of all those 'cult' beauty products that ought to have had their bubbles burst from day one. So stay tuned!!!

For the time being, however, here's the stuff that true beauty is made of:

BODY

1) BEST BODY OIL: NEOM REAL LUXURY ORGANIC BODY OIL

2) BEST BATH OIL: NEOM REAL LUXURY ORGANIC BATH OIL
The best-smelling pair in my bathroom; and they make a real difference to dry skin.

3) BEST BODY WASH: REN MOROCCAN ROSE OTTO BODY WASH
Suds up nicely without the sodium laureth sulfate - I like to load up 4) the £1.99 exfoliating gloves you find in Superdrug, and give the back of arms & thighs a good scrub with this. Soft soft soft!

5) BEST BODY SCRUB: ORIGINS INCREDIBLE SPREADABLE SCRUB
Nowadays it's the Superdrug gloves (see above) 2/3 times a week, BUT if I still fancy a little luxury, this is the scrub I return to.

6) BEST BODY CREAM: BROWN EARTH SHEA BUTTER
Thick, unctuous & a little bit sticky - but nothing's better for ever-flaky limbs.

7) BEST DEODORANT: ORIGINS ORGANIC TOTALLY PURE DEODORANT & 8) THURSDAY PLANTATION TEA TREE SPORT DEODORANT
Both smell fresh & herby & keep pongs at bay. They won't do a thing for sweaty pits though... sorry.

9) BEST SUNSCREEN, BODY: GARNIER AMBRE SOLAIRE KIDS RAPIDO NON-STOP SPRAY SPF 30
Great stay-put formula, light & unfussy, no suspicious pongs & true protection that kept every exposed part pink-free all holiday

BEST HANDCREAM:
10) FOR SOFTNESS: AVENE EAU THERMALE COLD CREAM HAND CREAM (sinks in in seconds)
11) FOR SPF: THE SANCTUARY HAND CREAM SPF15 (really yummy SPA smell)
12) FOR HANDBAGS: ATRIXO ENRICHED MOISTURISING CREAM (cheap, & cheerful hands)

BEST BATH SALT: 13) INA HIMALAYAN SALT CRYSTALS
Ain't cheap, but these leave a glossy film over skin & seem to depuff the entire body. For DIY treats, pour 14) Epsom salts into water and add two to three drops of pure Rose Essential Oil on top.

BEST CELLULITE PRODUCT: NUDE SMOOTHING BODY REFINER - if used daily for several weeks skin will take on a much smoother & even appearance. I got my thighs out for the first time in 6 months thanks to this serum - they felt far less jiggly too, thank god - but be warned, within days of giving it up the thighs went back to normal. Groan. It's an effective short-term fix though.

SKIN


15)BEST CLEANSER: ESPA GENTLE DEEP CLEANSING BALM
This baby wins out because it emulsifies with water, so rinses clean every time, and the blend has, finally!, balanced my skin out beautifully. 16) Spiezia Cleanser is lovely too, but is tougher to remove - best coupled with the brand's floral toner; 17) Saaf Cleanser is also luxurious, but I have found that it's best for drier skins. I'm also concerned that, over time, one or two of the oils in it make skin a little bit reactive... let me know what you've found though.

BEST FACE CREAM:
18) FOR COMBINATION/CONGESTED: ESPA 24 HOUR BALANCING CREAM - three months in, and my skin is calmer and less congested than ever.
19) FOR DRY: ELEMIS PRO-COLLAGEN MARINE CREAM - friends swear by the sink-straight-in texture and 24-hour benefits.


BEST FACE OIL:
20) FOR COMBINATION: ESPA BALANCING FACE OIL - just 2 drops day & night have made a world of difference to my up-and-down skin.
21) FOR DRY: ILA GLOW OIL - one of the most nourishing formulas on the market & a real cult beauty favourite.
22) FOR SENSITIVE: DARPHIN CHAMOMILE OIL - I used this, and nothing else, after cleansing on the morning of my wedding and skin remained clear & calm all day.
23) FOR CONGESTED: DARPHIN PURIFYING BALM - great for healing post-extraction skin.

BEST FACE MASK:
24) PURIFYING: OMOROVICZA PURIFYING MASK - a little dollop mixed in with their wonderful cleanser makes a fab deep-cleansing treat.
25) HYDRATING: JURLIQUE INTENSE RECOVERY MASK - this does it all: balances, purifies, brightens, but best of all, it packs botanical-rich moisture into parched skin - and the effects don't wear off overnight either.
26) CALMING: ALPHA-H CALMING & HYDRATING MASK - feels fresh & cool - takes down redness well, and is great for sunbaked skin.
27) NOURISHING: DERMALOGICA MULTI-VITAMIN POWER RECOVERY MASK - the high vit c levels give skin a real glow - it's also great for helping damaged skin to heal itself.
28) SOOTHING: ORIGINS DR WEIL MEGA-MUSHROOM SKIN CALMING MASK - the smell isn't for everyone - it actually makes me feel a bit nauseous - but it does restore comfort to skin that's prone to flare-ups.
29) BRIGHTENING: SK II FACIAL TREATMENT MASK - packs a nicely soothing punch & leaves skin looking clarified - BUT it can cause breakouts in those who are prone.
30) EXFOLIATING: ELEMIS TRI-ENZYME RESURFACING GEL MASK and KORNER SPARKLE BRIGHTLY RENEWAL MASK - both get rid of scaly patches gently, but make a visible difference.

BEST EXFOLIANT:
31) ORIGINS MODERN FRICTION - use a small amount & lots of water for best results.
32) AGERA MICRODERMA CRYSTAL C SYSTEM - used once a week, nothing is better for fading pigmentation patches.
ALSO WORTH A NOD: SPIEZIA ORGANIC ROSE & CHAMOMILE FACE SCRUB - an old school granulated formula - but the nourishing rose oil keeps this feeling like a real treat. I mix a bit in with my ESPA Cleanser when I feel I need a bit of a slough.

BEST EYE CREAM:
33) FOR DAY: DERMALOGICA TOTAL EYE CARE SPF15 - brightens, smoothes & protects.
34) FOR NIGHT: CREME DE LA MER THE EYE BALM - the smallest amount depuffs & soothes.

35) BEST SUNSCREEN, FACE: LA ROCHE POSAY HELIOANTHOS SPF50+ (light & traceless) AND 36) BEST TINTED SUNSCREEN: MURAD SHEER TINT SPF15 SUNBLOCK (an old favourite that I wear most days instead of foundation - it's a foolproof staple)

BEST LIPBALM: 37) SISLEY NUTRITIVE LIPBALM (steep at almost £35!! BUT it really has transformed my lips and I now apply balm just 1 to 2 times day) & 38) YES TO CARROTS LIP BALMS (thick, stay-put, and non-drying thanks to no petroleum)

39) BEST SPOT CREAM: ESPA ESSENTIAL TEA TREE GEL - I have raved about this lots, sorry, but having tried absolutely everything, from acid-based gels to essential oil roll ons, this just seems to WORK. A tiny dot dabbed on 'almost but not quite yet' spots, has, more often than not, nipped the blemish right in the bud. Love love love it!

40) BEST CLEANSING WIPES: GOTCHA! THERE IS NO SUCH THING. You are never ever going to get an adequate clean by rubbing a chemical-laden wipe over your face. Just not possible. Sorry.

BEST HAIR REMOVAL:
41) BOOTS EXPERT FACIAL HAIR LIGHTENER: Much less irritating and less pongy than Jolen - and cheaper too. For best results though, you might want to leave on for up to 10 mins (I do, and have never had an issue). Of course, if it stings or pops or burns at any time - WASH OFF straight away.
42) BOOTS EXPERT FACIAL HAIR REMOVAL CREAM: Purports to have no smell, but it does - pretty stinky too after a few minutes - but it does make light work of fuzzy bits.
43) VEET READY TO USE FACE WAX STRIPS: For speedy, unfussy waxing these have just the right amount of stick-to-rip ratio. The waxy paper is easy to position too. Avoid the strips that come on stiff plastic - they're hell to manoeuvre and seem to leave most of the wax behind on the skin.

44) BEST TWEEZERS: TWEEZERMAN SLANTED TWEEZERS - I've had mine for ten years!

45) BEST EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER: JOHNSON'S 3 IN 1 REMOVER - fab on waterproof mascara and 46) LIZ EARLE EYEBRIGHT SOOTHING EYE LOTION - will take off eyeshadow (struggles with liner & mascara). But as far as treats go, keep it in the fridge at all times for a soothing end to sore eyes.

47) BEST LINE ERASER: DERMALOGICA POWER FIRM LIP & EYE - the organic silicon base temporarily soothes out lines, so it's a great one to pat on before undereye concealer.

48)BEST SELF-TAN, FACE: OLAY TOUCH OF SUN - I'm not a big fan of self-tanning, but this deposits a kiss of colour that never settles in pores.


BEST TONER: 49) INA CRYSTALS WHITE GOLD RADIANT SKIN TONIC - refreshing, quenching & brightening. My favourite beach bag treat and 50) SPIEZIA FLORAL TONER WATER - great for taking off masks, cleanser or simply keeping in the fridge, soaking through a muslin cloth, and using as a Sunday night treat.


NEXT POST: #101, MAGNIFI-CENT: THE SEQUEL.... WHICH COVERS MAKE-UP, HAIR & NAILS....

#99 I'm Sticking With You

I'm a fan of the exfoliant - mechanical or chemical - and have a list of firm favourites I return to 2-3 times a week. There's the Vit C System from Agera and the Elemis Tri-Enzyme Resurfacing Gel Mask (both mentioned in other posts too) plus Korner Sparkle Brightly Renewal Mask which is a skin staple.

Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant is extremely good at creating an even surface and instant brightening boost, but DO NOT buy into the DAILY part. When used every morning (as recommended) my skin started to feel a little wind-whipped and thin around the cheeks, nose and chin. Save it for special occasions - although, I've also noticed that if I've used it in the morning, I'm more prone to a shiny t-zone throughout the day.

Then, last week I found myself at Energy Bodies, atop John Tsagaris' Treatment Bed, having 80 fine acupuncture needles placed in my face in a bid to fade pigmentation marks, even out pores and address the hormonal blips I'm prone to in the week prior to my period. There were a lot of pluses on the day, not least that he's intuitive, nurturing, kind and puts you at ease. On the down side, he is rather a bit too keen on talking about himself and sharing the miracles he's worked on other clients. He is 40 years old and looks good on it, but is not the boy-child other beauty editors would have you believe he is: he has strong, smooth skin, but it is far from flawless. Nor is the treatment painless (which appears to be the experience most reviewers have had at his hands) - there were at least 5 yelps as needles went into sore spots (when pressed through old scar tissue it really stung), but for the most part it was bearable. In fact, for me, the worst bit was the perfunctory cleanse (with a 2-in-1 cleanser/toner cloth) and speedy slap of moisturiser post-treatment. When he showed me my treated face in a mirror, in bright daylight, I could have cried. My skin was flushed and flaky and all I wanted to do was run home, give my complexion a loving cleanse + steam, chased with a generous massage with ESPA's Balancing Face Treatment Oil (I have been using it morning & night for 6 weeks & it's RIP oily t-zone! Hooray!).

But, the next day, the most bizarre thing. The old forehead patches that marked faded spots had almost disappeared, a looming blemish on my chin had bitten the dust and my brows seemed raised, eyes wider and brighter, and cheeks more chiselled. It was not a 'wow, have you just come back from holiday' style change, more of a subtle 'salad for lunch' shift... for which I was thankful, and retrospectively impressed.

Oh, and there is another thing I ought to thank Mr Tsagaris for: his recommendation of Origin's Modern Friction. You see, while working on my face he felt that my skin was slightly sensitized and asked if I used a scrub that contained Salicylic Acid. I nodded - that morning, I had used Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant. He suggested I try this instead. A call to the lovely PR later and I'm four uses in. I've noticed that 1) less is more - I've had better results from thin layers (which emulsify nicely when water is added as directed) than thick layers which over-scrubbed certain areas; 2) it's great before a moisturising mask (I have just discovered Nude Intense Moisture Mask - very very good at getting rid of dehydration lines on the forehead) and 3) it did not irritate my skin even the least bit.

So, though I may not return to Energy Bodies for another sticking (or getting stuck with a plus-£100-a-pop bill), I'm more than happy to stick to a regular installment of Modern Friction.

#98 Burney's Night

All-round gorgeous ELLE girl, Ellen Burney, left a well-worth-reading comment on my last post, so thought I'd reproduce, with an extra shot of skin wisdom.... enjoy:

" I've discovered – never mind rediscovered – Johnson & Johnson’s Baby Oil. I've tried all sorts of shaving gels and always find that for the money they run out so fast and so, with a plethora of hair conditioners sitting at the side of the bath (I only really use intensive conditioner on my hair which leaves all the others useless beside them) I've often used conditioner instead. Good, but not always top marks. I also went through a phase of a bar of Dove being the shaving option of choice but for the last few weeks I've been using J&J Baby Oil and it's the smoothest for longest and softest my legs have ever been. What else? Parissa Home Bikini Hot Wax - amazing... and fun - oh god and Nivea. Just a slab of Nivea Cream over freshly washed skin. On the luxe side of things though I am dousing my 60p cotton wool balls from Tesco with Pure Rosewater from Chantecaille. Everything in moderation.

And, why have I ventured back to Nivea & J&J? Because I have to abstain from all the harmful anti-ageing style products during pregnancy... and so many other things that I found myself wrapped in a towel for hours in the early days panicking as to what I could and couldn't put on my skin. But then I found that REN – already one of my skin creams of choice – was in fact entirely pregnant-woman-friendly (one of the founder's partners was pregnant and having the same skin scares as me) ... add to this Frederic Fekkai's sulphate-free range of shampoos and conditioners etc, Weleda's hair care range and, well, Nivea and J&J Baby Oil and I'm very happy. Plus I get to slip them into my boyfriend's shopping basket with a murmur of 'for the baby'... "

To follow Ellen's entertaining escapades, read her blog here: http://vagabondiana.blogspot.com/

#97 Cheap Stakes

No recession talk. Promise. But it just so happens that I've stumbled across some extraordinary econo-buys of late, and if it's a toss between penny pinching and sharing the wealth, I'm all for the latter. So, here my dears:

1) Johnson and Johnson 3 in 1 Make-up Remover
A big swig, soaked on a cotton pad, pressed over the eye, then swept to the side, removes heavy eye make-up far better than some far steeper alternatives. Yep, it's oily, but for heavy duty make-up that's always good thing (it means less mechanical force is needed!). Despite the fact that I would only use it on my eyes and not as an all-over cleanser, it does have several plus points: it doesn't sting, it isn't heavy, it isn't fragranced. It's my first step every night now, before I go over my skin with Spiezia or Sarah Chapman Cleanser for a proper clean. Weirdly, I swear it's made my eyelashes grow a bit too.

2) Dr Organic Aloe Vera Skin Lotion (available at Holland & Barrett). Now, this is no better than several other cheap, cheerful & almost all-natural formulas (I like J.R.Watkins more than Jergens, but both do the job), but it has one advantage over the competition. It really does soothe sore skin - as I found when I had a bad reaction to a spot of epilation. A layer of this took away the sting almost immediately and within a couple of hours, skin looked far calmer. It also feels nice after a day in the sun. A little also goes a long way.

In the mid-range, I really like Jemma Kidd's Semi-Permanent Lash Tint because it doesn't budge and goes on deeply, inkily black - like the gravy-thick ink that spurts out of printer cartridges. It does take some getting used to, and if caught on lids will need to be removed straight away with an oil-based eye make-up remover, BUT swept over the very ends of lashes, it gives a lovely natural feathery finish, which fakes length far better than any of the lengthening formula mascaras I've tried. Plus, on sweat-prone summer days, it's good to know your eyes ain't going nowhere.


Then there are the two premium products I've tried this week, which are getting two thumbs down. The first is Clinique Self Sun Face Bronzing Gel Tint. In the time it took me to squeeze a small blob out of the tube and decide where to apply it, it stained my finger. I rinsed the product off, then used soap & water, then scrubbed with a brush. The stain didn't budge. Now, this could just have been a particularly pigment-rich bit of cream caught in the first squeeze, but, well, who wants to risk a brown splodge on their face for the remainder of the day? Not me.

Next, Kate Somerville's Exfoli-Kate. Anyone who reads up on potential purchases on makeupalley.com (you should, by the way, it's a goldmine of objective advice) will already be familiar with the Jekyll/Hyde reactions to this range. Some claim it's their HG (that's 'holy grail' - LOL), whereas others feel it's overpriced, overrated, and massively under-performing. Well, having already tried some of the best exfoliants on the market (courtesy of Agera and Dermalogica and Elemis), this one had a lot to live up to. It did not. Firstly, it was immensely hard to spread over the skin. Secondly, the dispenser, though theoretically impressive, really only dispensed the smallest amount, which covered barely half a cheek, so I kept pumping away, unsure of how much I needed/if I was overdoing it/whether or not I just wasn't spreading it properly/if there was a chance I might end up in the Accident & Emergency with second-degree burns; thirdly, after using it, my skin tingled (and not in a good way)for about an hour, looked red (which is to be expected, if one heeds the pack) and the next day my chin was still a bit flaky. Hmmmm. If at first you don't succeed... it goes back on the shelf, and we'll see if I have better luck next time.