# 137 Soul Sister

'I'm 24 and work in an office in London. I currently use just a Neutrogena Oil Free moisturiser, as being 24 I was still getting the odd spot, someone suggested that I try something without oil. It worked, for a while, but now my skin is dry, lifeless, and still getting the odd spot. I'm nervous about changing moisturiser though. I try a Kiehls one about 6 months ago, but my skin just went haywire. I do however know that I need to find something to start giving my skin back its moisture, stop being flaky, hopefully keep away the odd spot and stop me feeling ancient before my time! If you could point me in the right direction of a relevent post, or have any advice I would be so grateful!'

Hey sister, I can relate! Ever since I popped out my little'un, the skin has been having an extended schizophrenic moment. It's superficially oily, deeply dehydrated, prone to dry patches and, out of nowhere, the odd forehead blemish has also made a determined comeback. Darn it to hell. The thing is, I've learned from past experience that it does no good to chop & change - to gauge if something's working or not you need to allow at least 6 weeks. Having said that the gut's a good indicator of the skin's proclivities - and it's pretty easy to tell if something's not going to suit you, full stop. The range I’ve always relied on to right my up-and-down days is ESPA. I’ve written about them several times in the past, but it’s the combination of balancing oil, balancing moisturiser, cellular hydrating complex and that lovely creamy easily-emulsifying oil-based gentle cleanser that most often gets my skin back up to scratch. I must say, however, that without the cellular hydrating complex, the combo is not quite hydrating enough as my skin switches from combination to dryness-prone the moment winter appears – but using a more moisturising line-up, such as, e.g. Liz Earle Skin Repair Moisturiser, which is packed with avocado, borage and wheatgerm oils, does leave me superficially ‘slick’ looking [even when using the LIGHT formula – I get that suspect 2pm shine on the ol’ forehead]. So, my advice would be to supplement a skincare routine that you’re happy with – i.e. a cleanser & moisturiser that seem to work with your skin – with masks, serums and concentrates. That way you can ensure that you’re not changing things up too much or constantly trying and testing formulas out on your complexion (which is the shortest cut to skin chaos). Some of the very best hydrating and ‘enlivening’ masks I’ve used over the years include:

DERMALOGICA MULTI-VITAMIN POWER RECOVERY MASK

REMEDE ALCHEMY LINE-MINIMIZING MASK

ORIGINS DRINK UP INTENSIVE OVERNIGHT MASK

JURLIQUE INTENSE RECOVERY MASK

ALPHA-H CALMING & HYDRATING MASK

I’d also like to stress the fact that I’m a massive fan of oils for ALL skin conditions. I’ve never ever found the oil-free method to help with my oil- or spot-proneness, in fact, whenever I’ve used entirely oil-free formulas in the past – from Leaf & Rusher; Dr Brandt; Dermalogica; REN – my skin has initially settled (for a day or two), before becoming increasingly oily and spotty. My theory (and several skincare experts would agree with me), is that by using entirely oil-free products, the skin begins to overcompensate by overproducing sebum. However, by selecting facial oils designed to treat OILY skin (wonderful combinations are made by Aromatherapy Associates, Daniele de Winter, Darphin, Decleor, Clarins and, as previously mentioned, ESPA), the skin seems to settle down far more easily – and provides a far more successful longterm solution.

Please, do let me know how you get on!

Yours sincerely,

A sympathetic sister in search of skincare perfection

# 129 Go Balmy [and get 15% off!]

Right, so, following my last post which talked up the benefits of the new Darphin Cleansing Balm, I've had some emails from readers asking which cleansing balm I rate most highly - whether it's the ESPA one I often chat about, or the Omorovicza one which I used to use religiously but get through a bit too quickly, or the Oskia, Darphin or Organic Pharmacy options...

There are many others I have used and loved for a short time - Vaishaly, for instance, was great until I began to feel it was just too rich for my shine-prone skin (and then it began to cause a few too many breakouts...)

The Organic Pharmacy softened skin beautifully, but because it doesn't emulsify (neither does Saaf's balm), I found I wasn't getting quite as 'clean' as I wanted, and after a few days, I'd notice some blocked pores where the cleanser just wasn't coming away as neatly as I'd have liked it to. Oskia, too, produce a fine cleanser - and it has the edge on the aforementioned two, because it emulsifies beautifully, but once again, I feel it's better for ageing skin in need of nourishment than younger complexions seeking balance and purity.

With this in mind, here are the two that I shall always return to:

ESPA is an absolute staple. The formula just seems nice & easy for me - never stings, never causes excessive oiliness, not too 'nourishing', emulsifies very well & rinses clean away. Lovely, lovely. Oh, and the pot's a generous size too, so this one tends to last me about 3 months.

Omorovicza is another favourite, but for a different reason. If ESPA were the staple, then OM would be the special occasion cleanser (the pot is, unfortunately, on the small side), but it does have a really fab knack of hoovering out those pores and making everything look that bit clearer. I'd recommend it to people prone to impurities and breakouts as the mineral mud infused within the oil-based cleanser has an obvious purifying effect (without ever having caused me to wake up to a spotty complexion the next morning). I also like the melty texture, the fresh salty-clean scent and how soft the skin feels afterwards. It's good, good stuff this.

So, it's a facial flit between Om and ESPA - and should the deciding factor be some money off (hey, who doesn't love a discount!) then Omorovicza might just take the balm biscuit, because they're offering all Miss Malcontent readers a 15% discount on the Thermal Cleansing Balm up to the 30th June 2010, when purchased online at www.omorovicza.com. The code is missmalcontent_3853

For those who are already sold, enjoy! And for those who are not... sure you can't be tempted?

# 128 Four Fancies

Several things deserve a shout out before the week's end:

Numero uno - the Clarisonic, which has made my skin look clearer & brighter than ever before. My family are convinced that it's those 'blooming' pregnancy hormones. Well, I know better (ha ha ha).

A deux - Darphin Aromatic Cleansing Balm with Rosewood. Regular readers will know that I have a serious obsession with cleansing 'balms' and 'oils'. Creams, wipes, foams, scrubs - pah! Non, merci. Well, this is a really sticky little treat. It has a deeply luxurious texture - a bit like honey and melted candle wax, and a strong floral/herbal scent. It emulsifies easily & quickly and rinses away cleanly. I've been pairing it with my Clarisonic and am most happy with the results so far [one week in]. The pot too, est enorme, which is a great thing if, like me, you go for a nightly double-cleanse.

Trois me - Aromatherapy Associates Enrich Hair Oil. Despite having relied upon this trichological treat several times over the years, I don't think I've ever blogged about it. Fool me. Now, before I start getting all lyrical, I'm sure that many cheaper and simpler oils (olive/almond/sesame/coconut, par example) would have a very similar nourishing effect on the hair and scalp too, so I certainly don't blame you if you're not willing to fork out £22.50 for this one. In it's favour, however, there is much I can say. It contains murumuru butter, ylang ylang, coconut oil, geranium and rosemary; a little goes a very long way [I've had my bottle for 6 months & it's still more than half full]; it's darn deliciously scented. But, the winning ticket: it's a failsafe treatment that makes a real & very visible difference to the lustre and smoothness of my hair. I've never left it on overnight (I'm funny about pillowcase stains), but I do massage it through dry hair & into scalp at least 4/5 hours before I shampoo. While the oil-slick look ain't hugely sexy, the scent itself is divine, so you can wander around the house in a comforting aromatherapy cloud. Best of all, the scent has longevity, and even after shampooing & conditioning, locks are still laced with it. Hair blow-dries really nicely after use too - I've often had comments on the 'health' of my hair the following day (even though I'm a serial iron & dryer abuser).

Quatre me if you can: Finally, my current lipstick obsession (also blogged about on my other site, We Make Up As We Go Along) shows no sign of waning. It's by Topshop, it's called Brighton Rock, and if it's ever discontinued I might just cry myself to sleep. It's just so beautifully, perfectly PINK & 2010 & POP & young & cute & LOUD & Marina & the Diamonds. And now I must stop raving about it lest it sells out. Topshop - you'll promise to restock Le Rock - oui?

#77 The Tan Plan

Having just returned from a long holiday in the sun, here's the Hot List:

I avoid the sun - always have, always will. But, despite wearing generous amounts of SPF50 every single day in the sun, reapplying every 30 minutes and avoiding the midday sun I have still developed a natural golden tan - minus burns, pinkness, freckles, sun spots, peeling or dry patches. I've been using Garnier Ambre Solaire Kids Rapido High SPF50 Fragrance-Free Spray and UV Sensitive Very High 50+ Protection Stick. They're great. No weird skin sensitivity or spottiness - plus they really stay put. Thumbs up.

For days when I've stayed in the shade, I've liked Sisley Sunleya Age Minimizing Sun Protection SPF15. It smells good, isn't greasy and feels lovely if you've got a chlorine-baked complexion.

Another valuable lesson I've learned is that my eyebrows always look weird on holiday. The mistake I made (and I confess, I think I do this every darn summer), however, was to pluck them thinner on my first day away as the guestroom mirror/lighting situation convinced me they needed a bit of threshing. Idiot. As my tan developed, my brows lightened, and the definition they ordinarily give my face faded. By the end of the week I looked bald of brow & perennially pissed off. Never again.

My holiday favourites?

My trusty Darphin Purifying Balm. To clear up spots, dry patches, uneven bits and to give you a clearer complexion by morning, I would never dream of travelling without it.

I'm also impressed with Essential Care Organic Mosimix. It did a grand job of warding off the winged beasties minus all the chemical chokeage. It's also extremely moisturising, so there's no need to use anything else after a bath at night.

All in all, not a bad haul.

#69 Snow Angels...

So, it snowed. In April. In Spring. Rather than analyse the disturbing significance of the current climate, I've chosen to counteract the cold snaps with cosmetics instead. So, this weekend, I spent a couple of hours going through my goody drawers and made notes of all the beauty buys currently floating my boat and brightening my day:

1) Essential Care Organic Herbal Shampoo
This feels very, very strange while you are using it and you'll be convinced that it isn't actually cleaning your hair - it's hard to massage in and makes hair feel a bit 'squeaky', BUT once rubbed into the scalp and left on for 3-4 minutes, it gets to work cleansing the hair and hydrating the scalp and rinses away easily to leave hair that is glossy, gleaming and feels very clean. In fact, since using it, my grease-prone roots have needed fewer washes - every 2/3 days instead of 1/2 as normal. As far as my mane is concerned, it's a bona fide hair hit.

2) Darphin Lipid-Enriched Soothing Cleansing Cream for The Body
I was a bit concerned that my sensitive eczema-prone skin wouldn't like this, as it does have a strong scent (albeit a gorgeous, powdery one that will make you think either of baby's bottoms or vintage florals). I needn't have worried. It's the creamiest and most moisturising body wash that I have ever used and has had wonderful effects on my put-upon (i.e. eternally sat-upon) bottom.

3) Eucerin Q10 Active Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream
Finding a good eye product is tricky. I've tried super-steep ones and cheap ones - gels, masks, serums and creams - and rarely feel that something is both simple and effective. This breaks the rule. It's not fussy, smelly or fancy - it just makes skin feel soft and smooth and is never oily. I can't vouch for it's anti-wrinkle effects as it's only been a few days, but can simply say that it feels good and performs well as a pre-make-up base and that's enough for me.

4) Omorovicza Thermal Cleansing Balm, Queen of Hungary Mist and Refining Moisturiser
So, I've been lucky enough to get onto the books of uber-facialist Sarah Chapman - more on her in the next blog - and we've both agreed that this wondrous Hungarian skincare line is doing, well, wonders for my skin. The balm - a thermal mud-rich, oil-based formula that is massaged into skin to remove make-up (in the same way that Eve Lom and Amanda Lacey's cleansing pomades are used), is pretty special. It has an uncanny way of 'hoovering' out pores and is quite possibly the most perfect cleanser that I have ever tried. It leaves skin silky smooth, nourished and calm - something that is often written about other cleansers, but which in my experience is very rarely true!

The Refining Moisturiser, is one of those rare formulas that truly hydrates and treats combination skin - leaving the T-zone moist, but not oily, and drier cheeks spongy and soft. Hyperbolic this may all sound... but it has proven true for me. The Queen of Hungary Mist too, is a wonderful, calming post-cleansing elixir, that I press into my skin with the palms of my hands, and even use around my eyes to erase little dry patches.

The problem with the range (well, there had to be a downer, right?) is that it's extremely expensive and, with the cleanser in particular, only comes in a teeny 50ml pot. This makes me rather angry and wary of using too much - in fact, I've even taken to using a different cleanser in the morning in order to make the pot go as far as possible. I truly believe that any good skincare company should invest in generous sizes for all consumers - thereby encouraging them to invest in a longer-term routine. If you want your consumers to remain loyal, they'll need to see results - so give them a pot big enough to last for two washes a day over the course of at least 4 months. If only this would become the standard for all skincare companies!

I have to say, despite the price tag, it's good enough to ensure my loyalty... but only just...

#52 Time Management

Travelling, working late, planning a big event – the diary’s been jammed – which has led me to downsize almost all of my routines and focus on one simple and very effective skincare solution instead. I was on the Stella Care line for a month. Reviews are mixed. Textures are great and the scent is amazing. The 5 Benefits Moisturising Fluid and two elixirs always sank in without a trace, left my skin feeling very soft (minus oiliness – which I’m often prone to) and definitely boosted brightness and radiance. BUT, and it’s rather a big but, I also broke out a lot more during those four weeks than I normally do. Not angry, hormonal spots, but little, sensitized areas – blotches – which I’m unfamiliar with. I can only attribute it to the extremely high level of essential oils – it’s potent stuff this, and it would seem that my somewhat sensitive skin couldn’t quite cope. So the solution was to stop, pare down (again) and let things get back to normal. My new night treatment is as simple as can be – a thorough cleanse, steam and splash with icy cold water, followed by a massage with either Darphin’s Camomile Aromatic Care (which has done wonderful things for my wind-whipped cheeks) or the new Darphin 8 Flower Nectar over face, neck and eyes. That’s it. Nothing more. Good things have already happened in the last week – skin is calm, temperate and – I do not chuck this word around lightly – glowing. I’m using either Liz Earle’s Skin Repair Light or more of the camomile care during the day and that is it. It’s suiting me, suiting my skin and most importantly, suiting my schedule.