#94 Lowe Note

I have a red patch of eczema beneath my right eye, a deep score like a scratch across my chin, and a small patch of little red bumps on my neck. The cause? Dr Nick Lowe's Hydrating Foaming Cleanser. Nope, I cannot believe it either. I've been using vitamin A, in the form of Retinyl Palmitate, found in Sarah Chapman's skincare line for several months now, so my once-sensitive skin is nicely acclimated to high-grade formulas - but there is something in this foam - which I have used just twice - that is exceptionally irritating to my skin. The ingredients include vitamin A, C and E, plus fruit-acid exfoliants... whatever the bum note or the questionable combination, it has caused an extremely discordant complexion.

So, what has helped? A gentle cleanse with my beloved Spiezia Cleanser, followed by the soothing Flora Toner, and then Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin-Calming Face Mask - an indulgent coating which soothed sore patches within seconds. Once rinsed & dried I massaged Sarah Chapman's Overnight Facial into my skin, gently, tenderly, and woke up this morning in a far fairer state.

So, until things calm entirely I shall stick with what my skin knows best - Spiezia & Sarah Chapman - and once back to normal, experiment with Yon-Ka masks, boosters & scrubs (following an impressive facial last week... more to follow next post)...

I had been looking forward to trialing the entire Nick Lowe line as I have heard wonderful things about the Day Cream and the Cell Renew Dermabrasion Peel, but given this blip, I've decided that quite frankly, Lowe's a no go.

#93 Spiez-Less

So, I ran out of my Saaf cleanser last week just as the lovely Spiezia PR sent one of hers for me to trial, in preparation for a big summer skincare story. It's been over a year since I used this and I had quite honestly forgotten how bloody brilliant it is. Shame on me. Going back to it has also made me realise that, as far as my skin is concerned, it's even better than Saaf - I know, I know - as Spiezia's formula contains purifying eucalyptus, clove and clary sage, along with calming chamomile. In fact, thinking about it, I realised that the smell reminded me of Eve Lom's infamous cleanser (the true MARMITE of cleansers), which also employs clove, chamomile and eucalyptus, but, worryingly, La Lom's formula includes more mineral oil and lanolin than any of the above (yep, Eve Lom's concoction is about as 'pure' as a Turkey Twizzler). The fact is, I used Eve Lom for almost four years - I was a raving loony for the stuff - and had pretty perfect skin the entire time, but the moment I stopped using it my face went entirely, incontrovertibly bonkers for several months - and when I tried to go back to it, well, I have never, ever known breakouts like it. I am not the first, nor shall I be the last, person to experience such Jekyll & Hyde reactions on this stuff...

So, back to Spiezia, which has never caused my complexion to crack up... and the best things about this version of the now-ubiquitous oil-balm cleanser?

1) A surprisingly small amount will thoroughly coat, then cleanse, the entire face (I definitely needed more of the Saaf to get the same results)...
2) It smells clean, simple and soothing
3) It can be taken off with the floral water OR a warm cloth, so unlike most balm cleansers, you can choose between buffing or wiping away
4) Given its calming & purifying blend, it's the ideal choice for spot-prone and congested skins. Saaf, on the other hand, might be better for drier, mature complexions.
5) It can be left on the skin to act as a deep-cleansing mask too, without any irritation whatsoever. I prefer to cleanse then buff away the day's grime with the first application, then rub another very thin layer over my face and hop into the shower, letting the second dose get to work by itself. I then remove this second layer with the Spiezia Floral Skin Toner. Try this once or twice a week.

Piez of cake.

#91 Princess of Persia

So. The Mister and I are thinking of joining the baby trail. Thank god this blog is anonymous or the batphone would already be ringing - sure to be first on the line, my mother. I've had some hormonal blips of late, linked to my one of my oldest pals, Mr S Tress, so the skin's been a wee bit naughty, with the forehead bumpier than a low-rent carnival ride. Things have, within the past week, returned to normal, but not before a 4-day cold parched my skin faster than Marty McFly's Turbo-Dry jacket.

Looking in the mirror on day five, I realised that my skin looked... hungry... and that perhaps I hadn't been treating it as good as I should have.

Despite having had fantastic results with Sarah Chapman's Skinesis range I had taken a two week break last month & on my return to the line, well, it was back to square one. That's the problem with Retinol. It makes for a seriously vengeful spurned lover. I knew that I needed to ride out the downs (spots, redness, mild inflammation) by reducing the application of the creams & serums to 3 times a week as Sarah herself suggested, and, in time, things would go back to 'normal' as they had done the first time I trialled the line... but... but...

...but it just felt like time for a change and having recently graduated from the Zoe Irwin school of hair colour, with my natural golden brown now a deep, bitter chocolate (the result of a super-shine-inducing vegetable gloss), I wanted skin to match, in an inner glow, organic cotton, rooibos tea, nature reserve, save the elephants, prairie plaits sort of way. I'll also admit that when I think of myself as a pregnant lady, this is the idea that comes to mind: me, a rocking chair, long shiny hair, munching on those pecan and banana muffins you get in Planet Organic. Christ, I need therapy.

Into my malaise fell the cleanser that has been recommended to me more than any other. I tell people that I love Omorovicza and Sarah Chapman and Spiezia and Agera cleansers and they're chomping at the bit to find out if I've tried SAAF. I always smile, politely, and say no, not yet, but I have heard wonderful things about it. There was no better time to test the word of mouth. First up, it's a thick oily balm, which is precisely what I want from my cleansers - three of the four mentioned above being just that too. It smells delicious, is made up solely of natural oils (97.8% organic) - think nourishing safflower and jojoba, along with skin purifying lavender and grapefruit. A chickpea sized amount is enough for the entire face and neck and it melts into skin, the essential oils intensifying in aroma as you massage it in, and feels cosseting and luxurious. Nice nice nice. Then, the customary steam with the muslin cloth and buffing away, leaving skin spongy and comfortable, and entirely ungreasy. I chased this with nothing but two drops of Organic Complexion Boosting Serum - another oil, well combination of oils - which is full of the sort of lovely things that might find their way into a Julie Andrews song: rosehip, lemongrass, juniper berry, jojoba and blackseed oil; your anti-ageing, blemish-clearing, purifying and hydrating bases covered then. At first my skin looked oily and I thought, ah, what a shame, this is not one for the day, but then, ten seconds later, any shine was imperceptible and my skin had clearly glugged down the serum, and left nothing but a soft base, ready for make-up. Two hearty thumbs up.

SAAF, Persian for PURE, seems to have put its money where it's mouth is - and the founder has a knack for getting the best from nature. Her lengthy and laborious clinical trialling methodology (nothing is left to chance) will have a lot to do with that. It's also just the sort of line I would gravitate towards when preggers - all those ethyl poxy para-wotsits you find in regular skincare not really fitting into my grand, green, design...god, I sound like a pre-razor-bobbed Gwyneth Paltrow.

As for my skin...

...so far, Saaf good.

#46 Return to Splendour

I've had a tropical couple of weeks in a country hotter than a body cavity and having flown out with a case, tagged with the dreaded 'Heavy' stickers, I returned a lot lighter (in luggage), calmer in mind and darker in skin. My stash did not let me down. Here's the verdict:

1. Liz Earle skincare - did the trick. In my opinion the Spiezia Organic Cleanser that I left behind still does the job better, but the Liz Earle combo certainly didn't let my sun/sea/pool-dried face down. Skin was soft, hydrated and clear all holiday.

2. The MOP stuff was hot too. The Conditioning Mist was particularly good - giving hair a simple dose of discipline - keeping it from puffing or frizzing in the heat. For days in the pool, the Styling Conditioner was a convenient choice. Combed through wet locks, it kept them in place, nourished and feeling softer when rinsed out later than night.

3. Aveda Damage Remedy. I used it every night - which is a bit OTT - but my hair never felt limp or greasy. Despite pool and sea marathons, the mane still feels silky and looked shiny every day.

4. Murad Oil-Free Sunblock Tinted SPF15. The hint of colour evened out imperfections whilst protecting me from the late afternoon sunlight. It felt nice and light, although as the mercury rose, it didn't stop me looking sweaty of shiny.

5. Derma Mum Stretch Mark Oil. This is even nicer than the cream. Every evening my limbs were soothed and left glistening with this nourishing blend of oils. I used it everywhere. It's fragrance-free too, so didn't compete with my choice of scent.

6. Sisley Phyto Touche Golden Oil. Used for one night only, on bronzed legs, whilst wearing a mini dress. Desired effect achieved. Wink wink.

7. Liz Earle Suncare. Hmmmm. Effective yes, attractive - h-Oh no. The face protector SPF 25, left a thick, bright, white layer on the skin - of course this is to be expected as it's a PHYSICAL suncreen - but even so, it wasn't sexy. I ended up using the body one a lot more (SPF 15) as it blended down to a less pallid finish and on my face I traded and pledged new allegience to Yon-Ka Ulta Protection Factor 40, which lasted very well, was waterproof and moisturised beautifully.

8. YSL Blush Variation in 16. Well, it ended up being just too pink. Once tanned, my skin longed for a hot red-pink or a golden apricot shade.

And, lest I provoke more wrath from the weather with my jealousy-inducing summer 'capades, I shall leave it there.