Friday, 28 November 2008

#84 What Goes Up...

Here is what has got me impressed:

Nivea SOS Lip Balm - good stuff this. More of a cream than an oily balm, it glides on, stays put for hours and provides tangible protection on blustery days. I like it a lot more than the Blistex Intensive Moisturiser, as the Nivea version does away with the mentholy sting & medicinal pong (and opts for a candy-sweet (though not cloying) scent instead).

Jemma Kidd Professional Team Collection - this lady has really got her act together and come up with a brand new line-up that puts to rights the problems with the former products. It's slicker, smarter, formulas work a lot harder, the packaging looks better and it has the well-thought-out feel of a premium line - hence it's new position in Space.NK (it will have left Boots stores by the end of Jan 09). The big hitters? The I-Perfector Prep & Brighten Duo - a double-ended pencil with a flesh toned eyeliner and concealer, both of which effectively cancels out redness and the I-Rescue Bio-Complex Cover - a skin-tinted treatment, concealer & brightener, which has that rare quality of actually buffing away shadows minus chalky crepeiness. Very nice indeed.

NEOM Organic Bath Oil: RESTORE - Two of my favourite essential oils, Jasmine & Sandalwood, are combined in this cosseting blend that has thrice pulled off a rare feat: making me smile at the end of a really, really crappy day. Two small capfuls in a big hot bath fills the room with fragrance, unknots the head, nourishes the skin and makes everything a bit more bearable. A lot to ask from a bath oil, but I'll be darned if this doesn't pull it off.

Here is what has got me depressed:

Urban Retreat The Cleanser - this formula really upsets me. It smells lovely, feels good on the skin, contains lots of thumbs-up ingredients...yet...yet...after just a few days use, I tend towards breakouts (having been clear for months) AND my skin takes on a slightly sensitized, prone-to-stinging feel (with heightened redness around the t-zone). There is definitely something in this pot that is not my face's friend. I do not like you either.

Aveda Damage Remedy Restructuring Shampoo - I LOVE this. BUT (and it's a really big but), after constant use my hair starts to take on the look and feel of the bottom of a ne'er washed chip pan. I rinse and rinse and rinse, but to no avail. It's the Jekyll & Hyde of my bathroom - sometimes producing shiny and bouncy locks; other times leaving me looking like a bedraggled extra from a street-scene in Oliver. I've taken to using it every other wash (rotating with Bumble & Bumble Blue Sundays Shampoo, which gets hair really clean). It's too good to ditch entirely though. How good? I've not had a split end in years...

1 comment:

Lucy said...

I looked this up on Makeupalley.com and found this comment on the Aveda, FYI!

rated 4 of 5 LauraBraunstein on 1/19/2009 6:26:00 PM more reviews by LauraBraunstein

As a stylist, let me first explain the science behind hair because it seems that a lot of people don't understand what this product is formulated to do. Each hair shaft has an outside layer called the cuticle that looks and lays like fish scales. Inside of that is the cortex which is made up of keratin protein molecules. When the hair is dry or damaged, the cuticle layer does not lay flat. This in turn allows protein molecules to seep out of the cortex. When protein molecules are lost, the hair is weakened and will appear brittle, or worst case scenario, will begin breaking off at different points. In order to repair hair that is not in ideal condition, it is first necessary to diagnose what is wrong and how long it has been wrong for. If hair has only been dry for a short time (a few weeks) and is likely due to weather or change in water, a protein conditioner such as this one is not the right choice. A rich moisture conditioner such as Aveda's Dry Remedy or Redken's Butter Treat is needed to help ease the cuticle and help it to lay flat again (which is what makes hair feel silky and look healthy). In fact, if overused, a protein conditioner in this case could pump too many protein molecules into the cortex causing it to bust and the hair to break off because it has too much protein. While it would take very frequent use of the wrong product over a period of time for that to happen, it is entirely possible. If however the hair has been dry for a long period of time, is damaged due to chemical processing, or has split ends up the wazoo, a protein conditioner like this one is the proper prescription. It is best to use it two to three times per week to help pump a lot of protein back into the hair quickly. You'll know if it's working because the hair shafts will appear stronger and thicker and when pulled when wet, will immediately return to original position when released. You'll still have to be careful not to overuse the conditioner however and to discontinue use or cut back to once ever one to two weeks after hair is repaired or else it will get overloaded with protein and be in just as bad of shape as it was in the first place. While a protein conditioner will help to improve the condition of the hair drastically, it still does nothing for the cuticle. In order to completely restore the hair and make it vibrant and silky again, an intense moisture conditioner will need to be used twice a week as well. There are many conditioners on the market that advertise as being both moisture and protein conditioners, however I have yet to find one that does either as effectively as when they are separate, so I'd advise you against them. That being said, Aveda's Damage Remedy conditioner is a great protein conditioner and I would highly recommend it to anyone needing more protein in their hair. My favorite however, is Redken's Extreme Rescue Force which is probably the very strongest protein conditioner made. Hope this clears up some things.