# 119 What the Hakaan?

When my backstage invite & show ticket were issued to HAKAAN the week before the big event, my expectations had been piqued by the knowledge that i-D's Edward Enninful was styling, hair god Luigi Murenu was on 'do' duty and Lucia Pieroni would be making faces... that's an extraordinarily high-profile team for a Turkish designer who until the event itself had never been heard of in London. And then I arrived and saw Natalia V stride past, followed by Anja Rubik, Lara Stone and MariaCarla Boscono. Even those who were part of the backstage team seemed surprised by the sheer supermodel weight (purely figurative of course) being hurled around the room. And that was before Kate Moss and Carine Roitfeld showed up. Cripes!

So, squinting through the whorls of ciggie smoke backstage (TUT TUT) I jotted down the tips & tricks being employed by the hair & make-up crew, snapping away on my i-phone, which I lost by accidentally dropping said phone into a bowl of steaming ho-fun noodle soup. DAMMIT. But while I no longer have my photographic evidence, I do still have my notes - so here's the scoop:

1) Hair, courtesy of the John Frieda team, was "boy on top and girl in back" (nice). While Luigi wandered around, getting models into seats and fine-tuning each and every strand, his team fed Unique Wiiv 100% Human Hair pieces through the under sections - the adhesive strips pressed up as close as possible to the scalp and heated up with a hairdryer which set them in place. These back bits were then blow-dried, along with intermittent spritzes of Elnett Hairspray to keep flyaways in check, and when dry and smooth, tonged with a slim-barrel iron. These very loose waves were then brushed out to give an imperfect frizz-fine finish.

2) The top sections were centre-parted, sozzled in John Frieda Luxurious Volume Mousse, until completely 'wet' and dried with a Mason Pearson brush for a sleek, shiny finish. Models with thicker hair were treated with John Frieda Frizz Ease too, which was rubbed over the crown as a finishing, patina-amping touch. This top section was then pinned in place and flattened with a temporary layer of gauze while models toddled off to make-up.

3) In make-up, the girls had their brows bleached (feel for the darker-haired models who had to sit through 2 rounds of Jolen) - but Anja R escaped sans-peroxide, Lucia brushing Estee Lauder Maximum Cover Camouflage Make-Up through her brows instead. On eyes she was using the quad - (I'm pretty sure it was the Eye Shadow x 4 Colour 3 Quad) - and worked the brown/purple (Jungle Moon) into the eyelid crease. She then worked highlighter over tops of cheekbones, brows, forehead and the orbital bone, and used a minky brown bronzer to contour cheeks and subtly colour foreheads. Finally, a layer of balm over lips, buffing them to smoothness and a lash-curl and girls strutted off for their walk-through.

4) Skincare spied on the bench: La Roche Posay Hydraphase XL - which artists massaged into clean skin before using foundation; Embryolisse (ever-present at the shows it seems, even if it's not for me!); Bioderma Eye Make-Up Remover (gentle, yes, but not great on waterproof mascara); and a selection of Giorgio Armani Foundations, including Face Fabric.

Oh, and the clothes?

Pretty Fakaan great.

# 118 Back to Backstage

As the UK's glossy-mag-world prepares for the advent of London Fashion Week, the same-old-but-never-old process has got me thinking, and reminiscing, and feeling a little wary before things have even started. Last year I attended around 20 shows and was backstage at just a handful, having decided to post myself out front in a bid to peek at the looks favoured by the 'real' women as opposed to the implausibly lovely little girls being made-up backstage. I had fun, until about 2 days in, when I realised that the mood was almost permanently rooted in quiet desperation, and I became acutely aware of the legions of fawning fashionistas attempting to get a glimpse of the LFW passes hanging around their neighbours' necks in order to discover if they were really worth smiling at. I've conversed, somewhat briefly, with Liberty London Girl over email, about the scary two-faced world that fashion can sometimes be, but as a beauty journo, well, I feel I've never been burned. My world is a gorgeous globe of wonderful PRs who bend over backwards to aid us (and let's not forget, the PRs work extremely long hours & are at the beck and call of both clients & journos alike - so, R.E.S.P.E.C.T) and in my 7 (or is it 8 now?) years of playing this game, I've come across so many wonderful people & am still heartily enjoying every moment of it. I can walk into a launch without a friend in the room or assistant by my side, all alone, and have a laugh, a giggle, a good time, without having to pretend that I'm dealing with essential business on my i-phone. It's not always so easy - sometimes the room's divided into the Natmags & IPC girls (they always seem to travel in packs!), but most of the time, there's a space of friendly faces & a relaxed atmosphere. Which is why I'm still doing what I'm doing.

I've written for small mags, online mags, big mags, new mags, rags, dailies, internationals... and at no point in my ever-evolving freelance role did I ever feel as though a door had been slammed in my face. So, long overdue as it may be, I'd just like to say an enormous thank you to all the fantastic PRs with whom I have regular contact in my 'non-anony' guise, and send out a big virtual hug. Squeeze.

Right, so, the real point of this post is to muse about the fact that, last year, while squeezed up beside the fashion peeps I began to hanker after my beauty enclave once more & so, for Autumn/Winter 2010, I am again venturing backstage. I've really missed it - the NEW NEW NEWness of everything, as my eyes pop with cosmetic-candy alerts; the general crazy energy of the artists; the mix-tapes picked by each & every designer, to get their models in perfect pre-walk mood; the smell of unfamiliar products & intense whiff of favourite ones; the skill and genius of so many of the unnamed crews of cosmetic whizz-kids - all of them rocking their own look, making a statement, loving every second of it. But it's not the trends that get me palpitating - it's the people, the pros, wielding skill like a silver Samurai sword.

And on Friday I'll be privy to the handiwork of one of my all-time favourite hair heroes, Luigi Murenu. I. AM. SO. EXCITED.

And of course, poised to post, post-show, to share all that my green eyes take in, celebrate & savour.

# 117 Hair Raising

I’m funny about my hair. I’m not one of those people who ever developed the knack of layering products and pouffing and fluffing until they end up with perfectly tousled tresses that are simultaneously sexy and chic. In fact, whenever I’ve attempted to do laissez-faire hair, I’ve felt oddly self-conscious about it – and just before heading out the door have opted for a chignon, bun, or slick side-parting instead. The thing is, whenever a ‘pro’ offers his/her take on messy, sultry hair (and they’re keen to, given that I’ve got handfuls of the thick stuff), I’ve loved it. I remember Mathew Alexander working hot rollers through my locks one evening as I trembled in anticipation and watched in awe as he brushed out big, bouncing waves and pinned to one side for perfect 1950s drama. Gawd, I loved it – and got followed down the street by two (rather drunk, it must be said) young banker-boys as I attempted to hail a cab. Mathew’s one instruction of the night: ‘BUY YOURSELF SOME HOT ROLLERS.’ Did I? Did I heck. I simply returned to my staple super-straight side-part, or messy updos with plaited bits & bobs, which is my safety zone… and, well, boring me to death now that I’m preparing to turn 30.

Now, I can’t claim an epiphany (if only), but a few new hair products have helped smooth things out of late, and I’ve found it easier to let my hair do what nature intended for it (sort of wavy, big, and thick), instead of ironing it into subservience.

First up is Aussie Aussome Volume + Conditioning Mousse. Firstly, g-reat idea. I’ve always loved mousse for amping up the roots, but this is the first one I’ve used which really sleekens and adds shine too. Once I’ve applied it to wet hair a comb glides straight through it – nice. Plus (and this is a real bonus for all busy working women), three days in and hair’s still not greasy. It leaves hair bouncy, but not very big – so those with really limp locks might want something stronger – but for me, it adds the necessary oomph with just the right amount of lustre.

So, I’ve been using the Aussie from roots to ear-lengths, and then rubbing a dollop of Ojon Restorative Leave In Treatment through the mid-lengths to ends. This has a very strong, sweet & nutty smell – like cocoa-vanilla icing – but for some reason, I’ve grown to quite like it, especially as it heats up beneath the hair-dryer. It’s like baking! What I like about it is that it’s not siliconey – and there is an incremental improvement to be gained from using it each and every time you blow-dry (my ends do look less knackered). It’s also great to use before a flat-iron as the oils bring out the sort of glitzy shine and straightness that implies health, rather than lank and flat extensions. I like it a lot – but it is expensive. On the pro-side, a little does go a long way and the tube will probably keep me going for 6 months or more.

Now, back to the sulfate-free search. Frederic Fekkai Au Naturel Shampoo and Conditioner have nailed it. It’s been 3 weeks & there’s no build-up (and I’ve been using styling products – as above), a single shampoo leaves hair lovely & clean, but never squeaky or sticky, the scents are great (clean, fresh, smile-inducing) and I’ve had no scalp irritation whatsoever since adding them into my arsenal. The conditioner treads the line between being creamy and lightweight, and just does what it needs to do with no tricky gimmicks or promises that miss the mark. It’s the most effective sulfate-free combo I’ve ever tried. But, as with all great things, there’s a catch: they’re not cheap – £18 each. Gaw! Would I buy? Oh dear… yes, I would, over and over, which I feel rather guilty about (almost £40 on shampers & conditioner?! What would Mister M say?) For the moment, and with both bottles half-full, I’ll live on in ignorant bliss.

# 116 Hot Shots

Guilt, immense guilt, at the gap in blogging leads me to scribble a list of the things I’ve loved in the interim. Well, they’ve put a smile on my face at any rate…

Neal’s Yard Remedies Wild Rose Beauty Balm
I began using this when my beloved ESPA Deep Cleansing Balm ran out (again), and because my skin felt drier than normal thanks to the Big Freeze we’re all bored of hearing about. The main point of difference between this and ESPA is that the NYR product does not emulsify, so it doesn’t rinse away cleanly in the same way that several other oil-based cleansers do (including Sarah Chapman and Vaishaly). For some reason, however, this hasn’t seemed to matter and after a good buff and steam with a muslin cloth, my skin is left feeling soft but not sticky or greasy. Of course it’s possible that this extra layer of nourishment is just what my skin happens to need at the moment – but the fact that I’ve not broken out in the three months that I’ve used it is also encouraging and when I do have blocked pores it’s easier than ever to ‘evacuate’ them, partly I think, because the balm seems to have made my skin that bit more pliable. As a winter staple, it’s a very good one – though not cheap (around £35). But I’ve been using it morning & night for 12 weeks & have a month’s use left in the pot. So… worth it.

The Body Shop Vitamin E Oil
I like the smell of this – and I’ve noticed that when I get the odd dry patch, this helps a great deal. I’ve been adding two drops to my ESPA Balancing Face Treatment Oil, mainly at night, but some mornings too, and it’s kept my reaction-prone skin feeling very very comfortable, even on the coldest days of the year. I also like patting a tiny bit around the eyes at night… it seems to hydrate nicely. Now, I’ve not tried the Ila Radiance Face Glowing Oil yet… and have heard that nothing compares (any opinions?) – but as far as inexpensive treats go, this is a winner.

The Organic Pharmacy Lipstick in Dark Pink
The best thing is the creamy formula – very balmy, without being sticky. It isn’t long-lasting, but because pigment’s so intense the colour does have a way of seemingly staining lips for the better part of the day. This is not a ‘waxy’ lipstick. The other thing I like is the colour – it’s a rather vivid raspberry, which looks brighter on lips (well, mine at any rate) than it does in the tube. It’s nice for an instant perk-up and great for sore winter lips too.

Yes to Carrots Deliciously Rich Body Butter
Just want to amend a prior posting. I liked this, then I didn’t so much (I felt it wasn’t great for those prone to back-of-arm bumps). Well, I got caught out without a body cream last week and have been using this for seven days straight, and I have to say that it really is bloody good stuff. You put it on in the morning and can still, quite palpably, feel the softness of your skin throughout the course of the day. Even as I type this, in an overly-heated office, enveloped in woollen jumper-dress, I’m stroking my lovely spongy soft arms. I just don’t get this sort of all-day softness from body oils. I’m also rather addicted to the baby-bottom-lotion scent. Mmmmmm. Reinstated.

# 115 Lippity Split

Anyone who regularly reads this blog will know that I'm a balm maniac. I'm not blessed with unflappable (or unchappable) lips, and come winter, my mouth is really put to the test. I'd been swapping between Prescriptives Lip Specialist Triple Action Therapy (now, ain't that a mouthful), Trilogy Everything Balm and Mama Mio Wonder-Full Balm when it became undeniably obvious that none of them were working. Fearing a case of the ol' overdoing it, I cut back to Prescriptives; a week later, when lips were chappier than a rodeo show, I tried Trilogy - this was better, but re-application seemed to be required every few minutes; then Mama Mio, which I'm convinced made my lips a lot worse (it seems better on dry body patches than lip-situated ones).

Despairing, and with a pout that just would not stop peeling, I emailed the Sisley PR. Two days later the Nutritive Balm arrived and just one day in, the chaps are healing nicely. I said I wouldn't fork out for this one (it's just SO bloody expensive and in such a little pot) - but I'm now entirely convinced that it's the best lip balm on the market by a very very long way. And other readers have concurred. Accept no substitute. (Oh and I also tried Nivea, Chapstick, Carmex & Suqqu).

And while I'm talking about poor substitutes, my recent trip into sulfate-free shampoos has come up against some problems. First bump in the road: Naked Shine Hydrating Shampoo. Nice smell, decent lather on the second wash (not on first), and not-bad levels of shine left on hair shaft... along with (*pet peeve alert*), a nasty, tacky residue along the scalp, where the product refused to rinse away cleanly (this was on outing 4 or 5).

So, the question - is there a decent, clean-rinsing, moisturising, calming & shine-boosting sulfate-free shampoo out there?

A friend has mentioned Louise Galvin - I tried her range many moons ago, so perhaps it's worth another shot. Another colleague swore by Frederic Fekkai's sulfate-free shampoo during her pregnancy - so we'll see how this fares too.

I shall feedback in good time - and in the meantime, do weigh in with your recommendations. My hair & I need you!

# 114 Embargo Off!

What's with all the bloody embargoes?

If you're a dedicated beauty editor keen to go after the strongest possible story, the suspicious spate of recent embargoes will have ticked you off too.

There's nothing more frustrating than being sent all the relevant information for a new launch only to have it chased with an email from the PR, stating that nothing is to be mentioned until a given date (which is several weeks later than the print date you're actually working towards).

I had my first embargo burn while working at an EMAP weekly - and a rival weekly at another publishing house ignored the embargo on a Dior palette, printing their exclusive the day after ours would have run. I could have foamed at the mouth. By obeying the embargo while the other journo ignored it, I essentially lost a bit of credibility with my editor.

The trend started with certain fragrance houses & new-to-the-UK lines, then moved towards prestige & premium cosmetics & face creams... but now it's running away with itself, and I've seen embargoes applied to D-list bath lines, a pair of tweezers and a self-published diet book.

The final straw came last week when the exclusive I'd been promised by a brand new British make-up line was overruled by a US PR, who took the brand's launch direct to a top US magazine (it launches in the UK and US simultaneously) - which then negated the story I'd sold into another US magazine. The UK PR was left playing catch-up (and apologising profusely), while I lost out on yet another stellar story courtesy of the last-minute embargo slap.

Then today, an email about 'The Big Green Boob Survey' - which involves an online magazine asking a series of women what they want from an 'ethical bra' and then challenging a manufacturer to come up with the goods. I've read the press release twice and I'm still confused about the premise. There are now so many fair-trade and ethical companies producing beautiful underwear... the idea feels rather defunct. Yet, it's also (apparently) a story worthy of a strict embargo. Tits!

It seems that brands have been misled into believing that embargoes generate BUZZ...

... in my experience, they only ever result in bored beauty editors. And the knowledge that if something is embargoed (and interesting), it's already being written about elsewhere, and earlier, which is reason enough for me to assign my page-space to something else entirely.

Embargo? I say No Go.

# 113 Nice & Easy

The trials and tribulations have stacked up this month.

Here's the good stuff:

Phyto Phytomist Instant Hydrating Conditioner For Colour Treated Or Permed Hair

Lovely scent, non-sticky feel, leaves hair glossy & soft - great for taming winter frizzies and stealing away static. I have neither colour-treated no permed hair (just naturally curly locks that go 'pouf' in the night), and this has made a big difference to the calmness of said curlies. When MOP discontinued their C-System style and hydrate spray, I was bereft. Now, thanks to this, I feel a bit better.

Sisley Eye Contour Mask

I was sent this by the obliging PR some months ago now, and given how my eye-bags always seem overladen come Christmas, I thought I'd give it a whirl. I use it around my eye contour while using other masks on the rest of my face, so it's a nice staple for that reason alone. It's a thick gel texture which glides on and stays where you put it, and does a good job of hydrating and smoothing out dehydration lines. It also seems to lift shadows slightly - not very noticeably I hasten to add - but just makes the area look a wee bit more 'rested.' As far as eye masks go, it's a keeper - but I'll confess that I probably wouldn't pay £61 for a top-up when this one runs out. Not because it isn't a good product, but simply because I'm inherently cynical of just how much difference an eye mask can make... and how short-lived even the best results can be.

And here's the stuff that's been chucked back into the 'unconvinced' box:

Ole Henriksen African Red Tea Perfecting Mask

I really wanted to like this one because had it been brilliant it would've solved all of my skin woes in a single swoop. It professes to hydrate, brighten, lift and tone facial contours, purify and smooth. A big ask - and unfortunately a product that left me cold (literally - it cools down on contact with skin, which left me uncomfortable - and the winter wind seemed doubly ferocious once I finally made it out of the house). I didn't see any dramatic brightening effect, nor did I notice improved tone. I've used Ole's products in the past and there are a couple I like - but I have to say, I've never liked the African Red Tea body line either (the heating cream & mask made my skin a bit rashy)... red tea's just not my bag.

Nivea SOS Lip Care SPF 15

According to Mister M, this one tastes like coal tar (erm, any idea what coal tar tastes like?)... and it's overly scented too. If it worked, this would be a small price to pay... but, it doesn't - after a sub-zero Northern weekend my lips were flakier than a coconut snowball. It's also sticky, and wind-swept hair + gluey lips is not a good look. Nope, just don't like this one at all!